Sucuraj may be a small village in Croatia, but it captures the kind of charm that most travelers hope to find in the country – a place where life seems to run on the same rhythm as the sea.
Located on Hvar island’s far eastern tip, Sucuraj is the closest point of Hvar to the mainland, and one of its oldest settlements.
With around 350 permanent inhabitants, it’s also among the smallest, yet it offers a rare combination: beaches on both the north and south sides of the island – Gornja Banda (Upper Side) and Donja Banda (Lower Side) – making it a reliable choice no matter which way the wind blows.
Together they also form a peaceful cluster of stone houses, narrow streets, and small piers where fishing boats sway quietly in the sun.
For travelers coming from the mainland – especially those driving along the Dalmatian coast – Sucuraj is the easiest and most direct entry point to Hvar.
And while many people pass through on their way to Hvar Town, those who stop here find a slower, quieter Hvar that still has a lot to deliver. So let’s learn more about this hidden gem, usually overlooked by tourists!
Where Is Sucuraj
Sucuraj sits at the far eastern point of Hvar, facing the Neretva Channel. From its waterfront, you can see the Biokovo Mountain, Pelješac Peninsula, and, on clear days, even the outlines of Korcula and Brac.
Its location has long been strategic, protecting the eastern entrance to the island, but today it’s valued for something simpler: tranquility, sea views, and proximity to the mainland.
To make sure you don’t miss it, I am marking Sucuraj here on Google Maps.
Getting to Sucuraj
The Drvenik–Sućuraj ferry is the village’s connection to the mainland, although there might be, especially during the summer season, various other options. However, the main one is operated by Jadrolinija and only takes 30 to 35 minutes. Here’s what you should know:
- Frequency: 6-7 crossings daily in winter; up to 12-20 in summer.
- Tickets: Valid for any same-day departure.
- Tip: In July and August, arrive at least 60 minutes early – car lines will form quickly, and boarding is on a first-come, first-served basis.
Drvenik lies on the Adriatic coastal road (D8), about 96 km southeast of Split and 120 km northwest of Dubrovnik. For anyone driving from Makarska or the southern Dalmatian coast, this ferry is far faster than going through Split or Stari Grad.
Arriving By Car
You can also get by car here to make exploring the island easier. This is convenient, but you should keep in mind a few important things – one of which could save you a lot of headaches:
- There is no fuel station in Sucuraj or anywhere on the eastern half of the island. The nearest one is in Jelsa, about 55 km away. Always fill up before boarding the ferry or at least make sure you have enough fuel to get to Jelsa town!
- The D116 road connecting Sucuraj with Jelsa and Hvar Town is scenic but narrow, with bends and occasional unpaved edges. Expect about 75-80 minutes to Jelsa and roughly two hours to reach Hvar Town.
Getting Around Sucuraj
The village itself is compact and easy to explore on foot. Most places – the harbor, beach, bakery, restaurants – are within a few minutes’ walk and generally, you can see everything this village has to offer in half a day.
Cycling is a pleasant option too, especially along the flat roads leading north and west. Some apartments and campsites rent bicycles or scooters, and the coastal trails toward Mlaska are ideal for a quiet ride.
Parking is generally free near the port and residential streets, while some beaches, like Mlaska, have designated parking areas with a small fee.
Where to Stay in Sucuraj
Even though small, this village offers plenty of accommodation options, usually in terms of private accommodation (apartment rentals) or small guesthouses ran by local families. They’re clean, affordable, and many even include terraces overlooking the sea.
Here are some top choices:
- Apartments Toplak – excellent location and amazing views, all for a decent price.
- 2BR Cottage by the Sea – a more premium feel, with an excellent location and free parking.
Compared to Hvar Town or Jelsa, Sućuraj is considerably quieter and less expensive, making it ideal for families, couples, or travelers who prefer peace over nightlife.
Beaches in and around Sucuraj
Despite its small size, Sucuraj offers over 20 km of coastline with a mix of sandy, pebbly, and rocky beaches. Because the village lies on both the north and south coasts, you can always find calm water – if the wind blows from one side, the other stays still.
Here are your options, in no particular order:
Cesminica Beach
Located just south of the village center, Cesminica is the main local beach – a mix of pebbles and smooth concrete terraces. It has showers, toilets, and easy access to the sea, making it a favorite for families and anyone staying in the center.
Bilina Beach
A quieter option toward the south, Bilina combines rocks and pebbles with crystal-clear water. It’s less developed but great for snorkeling or spending time away from crowds.
Mlaska Beach
About 4 km from Sucuraj, Mlaska is among the few true sandy beaches on Hvar Island. Its shallow, turquoise water makes it perfect for children, and the connected campsite offers facilities, a restaurant, and equipment rentals. It’s also one of the most popular in the area, and also a good campsite spot.
One section is FKK-friendly for naturist visitors. Learn more about these types of beaches in my previous articles: Guide to the South Croatia Naturist Beaches | Best Central Dalmatia Naturist Beaches | North Dalmatia Naturist Beaches Guide.
Hidden Coves
Those who enjoy a short walk or kayak trip will find several secluded coves between Sucuraj and Mlaska. They’re small, natural, and free from any built-up facilities – ideal if you prefer peace and space to yourself, but with no amenities at all.
Things to See & Do in Sucuraj
Truth be told, there’s not a lot to do here except for enjoying the beautiful beaches and connecting with nature. This is why most people only pass through because of the convenient ferry connections.
Still, a few hours spent wandering the streets of the village can reward you with some nice sights and perfect spots. Here are the main attractions in the area, apart from the aforementioned beaches:
The Lighthouse
Sucuraj’s lighthouse is one of its most recognizable landmarks – and you will see it from the ferry as you get close to the island. Built in 1889, it stands proudly at the very tip of the peninsula, where the Adriatic meets the Neretva Channel.
You can reach it by following a flat coastal path – about a 15–20-minute walk from the village center. The site itself is still operational and used by the maritime authority, so the tower isn’t open for public visits, but the surrounding area is perfect for sunset photography or even dolphin spotting on calm days.
It’s also one of the best vantage points for views toward the mainland and the Biokovo mountain range.
Historic & Cultural Sights
Sucuraj’s history stretches back more than a thousand years, though little of it has been preserved in grand monuments. Instead, its charm lies in quiet details – stone houses, narrow alleys, and modest churches that still serve the local community.
The village’s name comes from Sv. Juraj (St. George), the island’s patron saint, and traces of old settlements can be found throughout the area.
The main religious site is the Church of St. Anthony of Padua, originally built in the 17th century on the remains of an older Franciscan church destroyed by the Venetians.
Inside, you’ll find simple but evocative architecture and a few preserved relics from earlier centuries.
Nearby are the remains of an Augustinian monastery, once home to monks who helped build the settlement. These sites are small but worth a short stop if you enjoy exploring local heritage.
Where to Eat & Drink
Dining in Sucuraj feels more like being a guest than a customer, as the village has only a few konobas (traditional taverns) and pizzerias, and they are all located near the marina area (some only operating during the warmer season, from May to October).
You can basically hop in any and expect to find similar quality food, but these two below have been tested and are guaranteed to keep you satisfied if you’re craving fresh, authentic Croatian cuisine:
- Fortica Restaurant: usually open year-long, it’s known for the grilled fish and its home-made olive oil.
- Konoba Mizarola: offering casual seafront dining, serving seafood pasta and local wine, as well as various other dishes. (Usually, closed over the winter).
Also during the summer, a few small cafés and ice-cream stands line the port, perfect for an evening drink or a refreshment while watching ferries glide in.
Final Thoughts
Even though Sucuraj is not one of Croatia’s main attractions, the simple fact that you usually get there on your way to other destinations on the island makes it an interesting stop.
As you saw above, you have quite a few reasons to spend more time here, especially for the beautiful beaches, lower prices, and the more chill life.